10/01/15
Was supposed to catch a bus at 9pm but it ended up not arriving until after 10. The brits were quite sour about that, but I guess I wasn't too bothered b/c I've been catching buses in countries recently that on-time is definitely not a thing. Took the bus from Bristol to Victoria station in London arriving around 1am. Then I took the 1am bus to Standsted airport that arrived around 3am to the airport
10/2/15
Took a Ryan air flight from London-standsted to Tallinn Estonia. Then caught a quick city bus to the center where I walked to my hostel in the middle of the old city. I had first heard about Tallinn as a place to visit when I took the Tallink ferry from Stockholm to Helsinki to St. Petersburg that made a quick port of call in Tallin.
Tallinn is a like a little fairytale city contained within a large wall full of towers with red roofs. It's very medieval looking. Inside, the city is full of church steeples, narrow cobblestone streets, and little plazas. It's quiet this time of year, though I think during the summer it's crawling with tourists. The old city is actually really small and probably takes 10 minutes or less to walk across it. I spent the day walking around and exploring. I went out to the port and the baltic sea where there was this giant massive concrete thing full of stairs and graffiti. It was overrun with some plants and falling apart. It reminded me of what the pyramids in Mexico look like. Anyways, it afforded nice views of the sea and I later found out it was some promenade built back when the USSR hosted the Olympics in 1980. I walked around a lot of the different cobbled streets checking out the churches and old buildings. There's another little village, Toompea, adjacent to the old city and located on a fortified hill. I walked up to it, which also has narrow and winding little cobblestone paths and some churches. It also has the Tallinn "castle" which is where their parliament is. But the best thing it has is some great views down to the old city with all its towers and steeples and the Baltic sea beyond. I checked out the view midday but also went back for sunset and later to see the city under the lights.
Eastern Europe is quiet cheap! and the dollar is strong against the euro right now. This and b/c I'm here for just a short time, I'm not cooking at the hostel and eating out. So I ate lunch at this really tasty thai place that was really spicy like real thai. I had dinner at this place the hostel staff recommended that was just amazing. Very fancy food, but only 7 euros for a big meal ($7.70USD). The big (500ml) beers from Estonia are also only about 1 buck. So that's all pretty amazing.
In Estonia they speak Estonian but also a lot of Russian bc they are a former state of the USSR. But the young folk all speak good English. Tallinn was heavily bombed by Russia in the 40's and skype was invented here. They had a memorial to a ferry ship that sank on its way from here to Stockholm in 1994. 852 people died. It was one of the biggest maritime disasters in recent history.
Tallinn is a big party town. One of those European cities where they have, for a price of about $15 these pub crawls where you get unlimited beer/cider for an hour at the first bar and then at every bar you go to on the crawl you get 1 free welcome shot and drink deals. I did some of those when I travelled in Europe with college friends during our study abroad in London, but without friends here it wasn't really anything that interested me at all. So I just hung out in the hostel lounge. 3 other people stayed back--a polish gal, a belgian gal, and a 71-year old American from Centennial, Colorado. The two euro girls were here for a yoga retreat and class. The one from Poland is a big fan of art and she'd heard how Georgia O'keefe (the artist known for painting flowers that look like female genitalia), and another artist had moved to the deserts of New Mexico to focus on painting, so she had been dreaming about going to NM to do painting. So she was very excited to hear me talk about how cool NM is and how it's one of my favorite states.
Tallinn is a big party town. One of those European cities where they have, for a price of about $15 these pub crawls where you get unlimited beer/cider for an hour at the first bar and then at every bar you go to on the crawl you get 1 free welcome shot and drink deals. I did some of those when I travelled in Europe with college friends during our study abroad in London, but without friends here it wasn't really anything that interested me at all. So I just hung out in the hostel lounge. 3 other people stayed back--a polish gal, a belgian gal, and a 71-year old American from Centennial, Colorado. The two euro girls were here for a yoga retreat and class. The one from Poland is a big fan of art and she'd heard how Georgia O'keefe (the artist known for painting flowers that look like female genitalia), and another artist had moved to the deserts of New Mexico to focus on painting, so she had been dreaming about going to NM to do painting. So she was very excited to hear me talk about how cool NM is and how it's one of my favorite states.
Some interesting things that happened today.
I potentially saved 2 girls's lives. I was coming back from the ferry area and there were 2 backpacking girls walking next to me. W had just crossed a busy road, using the crosswalk, but then next we had to cross the tram-line which didn't have a sign or anything warning of it. The girls were very busy looking at their guidebooks and didn't notice that a tram was coming full speed ahead. They crossed right onto the track and were about to be hit, but I grabbed their backpacks and threw them to the ground behind me. They thanked me profusely and we went on our way.
I met two Russian guys in the early afternoon. They spoke about 10 words of english, which is about 7 more words than I speak of Russian. But we did some hand signals and carried on a bit of a conversation. I figured out they were officers in the Russian army. When it came to the where are you from and I said "USA", they seemed not to happy. They kept saying Obama's name and then thumbs down and then Putin's name and thumbs up. Then they said "USA only want money. USA all for money" But then they did hug me and say they thought I was thumbs up. Like most Russians I've met in this part of the world, they were of course drunk. Gotta love Russians and their vodka.
It was a bit windy today and across the street from where I was walking, a window way up high that was open got slammed by the wind into the wall and broke. A giant spear of glass fell straight down and missed hitting a woman by about 1 foot. If it had hit her, it might have gone right through her. What are the odds something like that would happen? Probably less than getting hit by lightning!
It was a bit windy today and across the street from where I was walking, a window way up high that was open got slammed by the wind into the wall and broke. A giant spear of glass fell straight down and missed hitting a woman by about 1 foot. If it had hit her, it might have gone right through her. What are the odds something like that would happen? Probably less than getting hit by lightning!
The hostel I'm staying is super nice. They even put earplugs and a chocolate on our towels on our bunks. I was chatting with the guy next to me on the bunk. He asked where I was from, and I said the US, and then he was like "oh" in a demeaning manner. I asked him where he was from and he said the "Czech republic, but you probably don't know where that is" Of course I did b/c I've been there, but also b/c we do learn such things in school. But I just said, "yea I know where it is". For some reason that got my goat a little bit. Guess he'd had some bad experiences with Americans or something. Interesting b/c all the Czechs I've met before have been really awesome. In fact I stayed in Prague with one when I visited the Czech Republic (he also visited Elisha and I in Gainesville b/c he and his wife had moved to Ft. Lauderdale as he worked for DHL. And I stayed with another in Beijing at his place b/c he worked there.
Just like it was in Russia, it's fun to watch the Russian tourist girls getting their photos taken. They do all these funny (generally attempting to be sexy) poses. And something that cracks me up the most is that if say the scenic thing is in one direction, they take the picture in the other b/c they don't really care about being in the photo with the pretty building or view, they just want to be the main pretty thing in the center of the photo. In Russia they used to do all these up against the wall sexy photos. Here they tended to lie down on the cobbled roads in seductive manners. Pretty funny to watch b/c they have no shame even when people are watching.
One of the tourist attractions that you can do in Estonia is shoot AK-47s and other big guns. I guess that relates back to the soviet days and they probably don't have strict gun laws here. One of the shooting packages was called the "Tony Montana" (see pic below). That made me laugh. Even Estonians equate guns with Montana.
Just like it was in Russia, it's fun to watch the Russian tourist girls getting their photos taken. They do all these funny (generally attempting to be sexy) poses. And something that cracks me up the most is that if say the scenic thing is in one direction, they take the picture in the other b/c they don't really care about being in the photo with the pretty building or view, they just want to be the main pretty thing in the center of the photo. In Russia they used to do all these up against the wall sexy photos. Here they tended to lie down on the cobbled roads in seductive manners. Pretty funny to watch b/c they have no shame even when people are watching.
One of the tourist attractions that you can do in Estonia is shoot AK-47s and other big guns. I guess that relates back to the soviet days and they probably don't have strict gun laws here. One of the shooting packages was called the "Tony Montana" (see pic below). That made me laugh. Even Estonians equate guns with Montana.
10/03/15
Got up kind of early to check out some other views of the city. Went to the old bastion, which is now a park, which had an ok view. But then climbed way, way, way up to the top of the steeple of the St. Olav's church. It had fantastic views over the city and towards Toompea. When I got back to the hostel I had their free breakfast, which was quite good. Cereal, toast, and freshly made crepes with homemade strawberry, black currant, and apple jams.
After late breakfast, I continued exploring around the city. I visited what they call a true soviet era market behind the train tracks, known as Balti Jaam. The guide map I had described it as thus "This everything-for-sale (including your stolen bike) market is a true culture shock for western tourists. With old Russian folk selling homemade jam, mushrooms, and produce and local bums bargaining for "antiques", it's a refreshing alternative to the flashy shopping centres. Visit while it's still alive!" It was cool, and they were selling a bit of everything. Much more subdued than an Asian market thought. The old Russian ladies were selling lots of huckleberries. 1 to 2 euros for a liter.
Got up kind of early to check out some other views of the city. Went to the old bastion, which is now a park, which had an ok view. But then climbed way, way, way up to the top of the steeple of the St. Olav's church. It had fantastic views over the city and towards Toompea. When I got back to the hostel I had their free breakfast, which was quite good. Cereal, toast, and freshly made crepes with homemade strawberry, black currant, and apple jams.
After late breakfast, I continued exploring around the city. I visited what they call a true soviet era market behind the train tracks, known as Balti Jaam. The guide map I had described it as thus "This everything-for-sale (including your stolen bike) market is a true culture shock for western tourists. With old Russian folk selling homemade jam, mushrooms, and produce and local bums bargaining for "antiques", it's a refreshing alternative to the flashy shopping centres. Visit while it's still alive!" It was cool, and they were selling a bit of everything. Much more subdued than an Asian market thought. The old Russian ladies were selling lots of huckleberries. 1 to 2 euros for a liter.
I ate lunch at this place called Ill Draakon in the old city. It's straight out of the middle ages. Felt like you were in the game of thrones. They have a very small menu (not written, you have to ask): elk stew (I believe elk in europe is actually moose), ox ribs, ox sausage, pies of several types (vegetable, mushroom, apple, boar, ox, and elk), elk jerky, and dark and light beer. I ordered and mushroom and boar pies, ox sausage, and a pint of beer all for 6 euros. They have a barrel full of pickles and they give you this long skewer thing to pluck them out and you can take as many pickles as you'd like. I didn't get the soup, but if you do, they don't even give you a spoon. The pint of beer and the dishes are all made out of clay pottery. Very cool place. I thought you might enjoy some of the reviews on Tripadvisor about it (below)
Ate dinner at a very tasty pancake place that serves up giant portions for a low price. I got a bacon, smoked cheese, and mushroom pancake. Super tasty. Most the couples in there got a savory pancake to share and then got a sweet one. The sweet ones looked amazing with icecream, but would have been too much for me to eat both!
After dinner I took a tram to the bus station and then took the the 7pm bus from Tallinn to Riga, Latvia. Busses in Europe have been amazing so far. Both the megabus (bristol to London) and this bus had free wifi. But this bus also had little screens on the back of the seat with about 50 or so English movies to choose from just like airplanes. This is a whole other world of busses compared to some buses I've been on (see blog posts from indonesia, myanmar, nepal, and ecuador.haha)
Ate dinner at a very tasty pancake place that serves up giant portions for a low price. I got a bacon, smoked cheese, and mushroom pancake. Super tasty. Most the couples in there got a savory pancake to share and then got a sweet one. The sweet ones looked amazing with icecream, but would have been too much for me to eat both!
After dinner I took a tram to the bus station and then took the the 7pm bus from Tallinn to Riga, Latvia. Busses in Europe have been amazing so far. Both the megabus (bristol to London) and this bus had free wifi. But this bus also had little screens on the back of the seat with about 50 or so English movies to choose from just like airplanes. This is a whole other world of busses compared to some buses I've been on (see blog posts from indonesia, myanmar, nepal, and ecuador.haha)
After passing countless tourist trap restaurants in the old town, I decided to give this place a shot. I'm a sucker for Middle Ages and medieval themed anything, and III Draakon just overflows with that gritty historic atmosphere. It's dark and brooding, and you half expect to see some drunken bard or knight stumbling out with an ale in hand. There are herbs and pots hanging from the ceilings, old wood tables and shelves covered with candles (the only light source), and no written menu. That's right. The barmaids are happy to tell you what's on offer, from elk meat stew to wild boar pie to locally brewed dark ale. The ladies are quite salty and definitely play the part intentionally, which adds even more to the fun and atmosphere of the place. To top it all off, the food tastes excellent and is impressively budget friendly (so much that I had seconds). All in all, if you're looking for a high class eatery where the servers wait on you hand and food, this is not your place. If you want a fun experience that's unique and memorable (and affordable), you can't go wrong with III Draakon.
We walked into this hole-in-the-wall sort-of restaurant by chance. We ordered beer and wine. The attending elder spinsteress-type with a sour disposition fit the decor of the place perfectly. . . . and so she was dressed in Medieval garb that matched her disposition/act. We watched as she treated customer after customer rudely. She was a joy to watch for the entertainment value. If you want a good meal with excellent service, this is not the place for you. This is were you go for a "hoot."
I can only speak for two of the dragons, as the third must've been out back napping or picking the last customer's remains out of its teeth when we came around a few weeks ago. The pair we did meet were two of the nastiest, most unpleasant waitresses I've met and, because of that, I felt compelled to create an account just so that it could be on record.
We visited this place upon recommendation from our hostel. Like many backpackers who visit Tallinn, it was touted as a great budget option, in contrast with most places in the Old Town.
I poked my head in and briefly caught the attention of the two women sitting in the corner and gestured that we would be sitting outside. Neither stood up, smiled or even acknowledged my presence, so I went outside slightly unsure whether or not we could expect service.
Surely enough after a few minutes no one came by, so we tried again. My friend asked simply whether we could expect to be served at our table or if we were to order inside. The women were still sitting down, as they were before.
"Does this look like the kind of place where you order at your table?" was the only response.
We then asked if there was a menu, as no food options were on display. One of them scoffed at our request, while the other grunted out the items that we could choose from (I forget what they were).
They both dropped their heads immediately once again and went back to speaking to each other.
My friend gave them another opportunity to demonstrate some level of hospitality, which they met with a similarly rude response.
We left the place and ate some horrible pub food a few streets away. It was awful food, overpriced, and still a better experience than the five minutes spent at III Drakon.
Like anyone, I can only speak of my own unique experience, and I can't attest to the quality of the food which, from other reviews, seems good. Still, it was some of the worst service I've had at any establishment and, if the same beastly staff remain there, I can't imagine it'll be the last of its kind.
We visited this place upon recommendation from our hostel. Like many backpackers who visit Tallinn, it was touted as a great budget option, in contrast with most places in the Old Town.
I poked my head in and briefly caught the attention of the two women sitting in the corner and gestured that we would be sitting outside. Neither stood up, smiled or even acknowledged my presence, so I went outside slightly unsure whether or not we could expect service.
Surely enough after a few minutes no one came by, so we tried again. My friend asked simply whether we could expect to be served at our table or if we were to order inside. The women were still sitting down, as they were before.
"Does this look like the kind of place where you order at your table?" was the only response.
We then asked if there was a menu, as no food options were on display. One of them scoffed at our request, while the other grunted out the items that we could choose from (I forget what they were).
They both dropped their heads immediately once again and went back to speaking to each other.
My friend gave them another opportunity to demonstrate some level of hospitality, which they met with a similarly rude response.
We left the place and ate some horrible pub food a few streets away. It was awful food, overpriced, and still a better experience than the five minutes spent at III Drakon.
Like anyone, I can only speak of my own unique experience, and I can't attest to the quality of the food which, from other reviews, seems good. Still, it was some of the worst service I've had at any establishment and, if the same beastly staff remain there, I can't imagine it'll be the last of its kind.
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| Tony Montana package. 71 rounds! |
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| the weird olympic promenade |
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| Town Hall Square |
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| ear plugs and chocolate...so fancy! |
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| Decent Bowl of Elk Soup |
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| The Tallinlink ferry I took a while ago from Stockholm to Helsinki to St. Petersurg |
1 comment:
Sounds like a sweet place!!
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