At the end of the summer I was very lucky to be asked to be trip leader for the Oceanic Society to Malaysian Borneo. The Oceanic Society is a conservation minded company that leads rather luxurious trips compared to what I'm used to. They also do a good job of hiring some of the best local guides in the area to make wildlife viewing all the better. Although you sometimes have to deal with wealthy folks who are used to being spoiled and having everything go smoothly (which can be tough in developing countries), I like leading the trips b/c the itinerary is usually full, visits cool places, and you get to stay in some luxury with great food.
9/20/19
Elisha and I drove to Spokane where we stayed in a room in an airbnb at Airport Heights and went out to a Thai restaurant
9/21/19
Flew from Spokane to San Francisco. During the layover I watched the gator game. Then a nice flight to Shanghai. I had to go through the rigmarole of getting a temporary visa, which wasn't too painful. But a Spanish couple in line was having a lot of trouble b/c they didn't really speak English. So I helped them with translation so that they could get their visa.
After going through the visa process, I found out that my luggage was lost. Although the gate agent told me I wouldn't have to pick up my luggage in San Francisco, it turns out I was supposed to pick it up there and re-check it. So I tried to deal with that. Eventually I went and got some chinese noodles and then boarded my flight to Kota Kinabalu.
9/22/19
Arrived early morning (12:30am) to Kota Kinabalu. I was picked up and taken to a nice hotel. I spent a fair amount of that late night trying to figure out how to get my lost luggage
9/23/19
Had a nice breakfast at the hotel. A guy from the company Oceanic Society works with met me at the hotel and we went to the fancy mall nearby to buy some clothes and essentials, since who knows when my bag will get there. Being Asia, I had to buy larger sizes, like XXL, yet they were still tight on me. KK is so fancy and modern now compared to when I was there back in 2008 (or was it 2009).
Had an afternoon flight to Sandakan, then transfer to Sepilok Nature Resort. Super fancy! It's located in the jungle with water around, and I have my own huge cabana! I met Atteh, my co-guide who works for Oceanic Society's partner in Malaysia (Sticky Rice). He's a very nice guy. I saw an orangutan just outside my cabana. In the early evening I gave an arrival brief, then had a nice dinner of red chicken curry and ice cream. I of course met the guests who would be traveling with Atteh and me: Nancy & Evelyn (sisters from Texas), Carol & Thad (siblings from Kansas, though Thad has lived in Montrose for many years), and Julia (California).
9/24/19
We had a nice breakfast by the pond. We then visited the Sun Bear Conservation area. We saw several cute sun bears with their black bodies and golden chests. They prefer to eat honey and insects. We then moved on to visit the Sepilok Orangutan rehab center. We saw several semi-wild orangutans including 2 moms with tiny babies. The orangutans at this rehab center have food put out for them every morning; however, they are free to come and go and there are no fences, so in that sense, they are wild. Often orphans, injured individuals, or orangutans who have lost their homes due to habitat destruction are brought here.
We then took a 1.5 hour boat ride from the Sandakan Yacht Club, which sits on the ocean, to the Kinabatangan Wetland Resort by traveling up the Kinabatangan River. We arrived to a tasty Malay buffet lunch. The Kinabatangan Wetland Resort is SUPER fancy.
After lunch and a rest we went on a river safari where we saw long-tailed macaque monkeys, proboscis monkeys, an orangutan, silvered langur monkeys, a baby crocodile, and a grey-tailed racer snake.
Best of all was seeing a clouded leopard attacking a silvered langur morph!! We were watching some langurs jump huge distances from tree to tree, when all of a sudden someone yelled, "Clouded Leopard! Clouded Leopard" and we turned and saw a leopard hanging upside down by two legs holding a langur in it's mouth. Clouded Leopards are incredibly rare to see, so we were super lucky to see one!
Back at the resort we saw a flying snake on the boardwalk. After a delicious Malay buffet with good curries, we took a night walk in the rainforest. We saw a scorpion. It is cool how it glows under a UV light. We also saw some sleeping birds
9/25/19
We had an early morning boat safari ride. We saw silvered langurs, probosci monkeys, long-tailed macaques, and a rhinoceros hornbill. We had tea at an ox bow lake and then a fancy breakfast when we got back. Before lunch we did a short jungle hike, and then I chilled in my nice room. This lodge is definitely quite fancy and we always have hot and cold towels given to us when we arrive back to the lodge after a safari. In the afternoon we had a another safari boat ride. Highlights were some really cute baby macaques and also 2 short-clawed otters.
At night we had live music (good singers) and ate some great curry dishes. We then had a night boat ride where we saw a croc and sleeping kingfishers. The stars were amazing, but the best was the lightning bugs in the trees!! They were so brilliant and they lit up the trees like Christmas, twinkling away as they turned on and off trying to attract mates! Truly mesmerizing and one of the highlights.
9/26/19
In the morning we took a boat up river to Sukau. We then hopped in a van to drive to Lahad Datu, a city where the Borneo Rainforest Lodge headquarters are. It was a disheartening drive as it was 2+ hours of driving through palm oil plantations where there used to be virgin rainforest. Palm oil plantations are the number one reason for rain forest destruction and species extinction in Borneo. The Rainforest Lodge HQs are right next to the Danum Valley Field Centre Office. Many years ago I had stopped at the field centre office before heading up to the research center. Back then I remember looking at how fancy the rain forest lodge headquarters were and the pictures of how fancy the lodge was, but I was going to the very basic research station. But now, oh how the tables have turned. I remember thinking I'd never go to the rainforest lodge because it was so fancy and expensive. At the HQs we were given snacks and free water bottles. We then hopped in fancy, brand new, and shiny 4x4 trucks for the 2 hour drive to the Borneo Rainforest Lodge, which was a nice drive through towering rainforest. We were welcomed with lemon, mint, and lemon-grass ice water and hot towels to wash off with.
The lodge sits in primary forest along a river. It's beautiful! While eating lunch (the lodge is open air for dining) we saw maroon langurs from the balcony. Lunch spread was amazing! There was an appetizer area with prawns, salads, cold meats. There was Tom Yum soup. Six different Asian dishes, including a yummy chicken curry, shrimp stir fry, eggplant dish, lamb curry, and more. They also had fancy cheeses and breads with special sauces (such as pesto), and more. They also did made to order sandwiches, make to order pasta, and made to order stir fry. There were dried fruits (like banana and dragon fruit) and nuts. They had desserts like mango mousse, chocolate mousse, tiramisu, and cookies. SO fancy! The room are very nice as well. There is no air con, but a special cell phone to call reception, all the adapters for various country plugs you could want, tea and coffee maker, a lemon grass air diffuser (like those things Elisha likes), a minibar with free soft drinks, no chemicals in their soaps, etc. They have a special ant proof container for food, b/c as I found out, the ants pretty instantly find your food.
In the afternoon, we walked through the forest with a guide. We saw some maroon langurs and some cool large lizards on trees. We also saw a monitor lizard. The rainforest is beautiful! The trees are so gigantic! I also saw the must beautiful butterfly I have ever seen gliding through the forest with its translucent wings.
Dinner was of course amazing. I had fresh stir-fry, mee-goreng, plus samples from all the different types of curries on offer, including an eggplant curry and a green coconut seafood curry. We took a game drive at night in an extended open air electric golf cart. We saw 2 giant flying squirrels, a civet, horned frog, some of the biggest tarantulas (ones that eat birds), a mouse-deer (the smallest deer), and best of all, a leopard cat, the smallest species of cat here.
9/27/19
We did an early morning canopy walk, which was cool. We then went to breakfast. There were made to order omelettes, fresh fruit, fresh squeezed juices, and more. We had a chill morning, and I worked on my presentations. Another yummy lunch. Many curries and good soups. In the afternoon we walked to a swimming hole that was SO warm. We then did a late afternoon nature walk. On the way, we saw a cute little bat that sleeps in rolled up banana leaves. We also saw a really cool flying mammal called a colugo. It started to rain, so we headed back. Under one tree, because of the wind, nuts were pelting down all over. It was like a nut rain!
Another amazing dinner. Then we did a night walk where we saw several species of tree frogs, a couple snakes, a giant moth, and some other little critters. I gave my talk on rainforest ecology that night in the conference room of the resort. A lot of the local guides stopped in to watch it.
9/28/19
Fresh waffles for breakfast. Then me and the fittest of the guests did an early morning hike up to a viewpoint that was very nice. We saw maroon langurs at the top. We also visited a historical burial site in the cliffs. On the way down, we stopped at a little pool next to a waterfall where you could dip your feet in and the fish would munch at your dead skin. It was so tickly!!! It would make you scream/laugh at the same time. I eventually got all the way into the pool, and the fish bit all over me.
Another delicious lunch, including a big burger. After lunch I prepped for my next lecture and then had a really nice hour long massage that was so fancy (with tea before and after, special scented towels, foot cleaning in a flower bath).
On the afternoon walk, we followed an orangutan mom and baby through the forest. My lecture this evening went well. It was mostly on my own research in the tropics. On our night game drive we saw a colugo, giant tree frog, and a malayan civet. We also caught a super quick glimpse of a slow loris. Yummy dinner once again: grilled prawns were amazing. At dinner, we saw a flying gecko.
9/29/19
Maroon langurs visited the lodge during breakfast and sauntered into the dining area. After breakfast we went by 4x4 to the end of the dirt road, then in a van to Semporna, a town on the coast. From there we hopped on a boat and after an hour or so speed boat ride, we arrived to Mataking Island. There is a beautiful resort--where we are staying--on this their own private island. There's a beautiful white sand beach encircling the entire island and of gorgeous beautiful aquamarine water. The whole resort, aside from our small group is Chinese, and it's obvious the place mainly caters to chinese as their are always chinese food choices and all the information for rooms and activities are written first in chinese. After checking in, I took a walk on the beach around the entire island and saw some turtle nesting tracks. At the center of the island I climbed up a man-made viewing tower. I then relaxed in my room until dinner. Dinner had delicious fresh tuna steaks and lots of Asian dishes. The dining area is open air, but enclosed as part of it, or you can sit out on the deck where the ocean is right below you, which is cool.
9/30/19
In the morning we got on a boat for the 90 minute boat ride to the famous Sipadan Island. We had 2 morning snorkels, then we had a fish and chicken lunch on the island and then an afternoon snorkel. So so so many turtles. Everywhere! Also a huge school of jacks that could swim through. Saw 2 octopi, one which wasn't too shy, so you could see it all. I also saw 2 white-tipped reef sharks. Some barracuda as well. But turtles everywhere, just everywhere. There was nice coral as well, but just so many fish and so many big fish. One of the truly best dive spots in the world.
Back on Mataking island, I walked out, during low tide to Little Mataking island. The tide started to come back in on the way back, causing the sandbar bridge to disappear. I noticed 2 people behind me were having some trouble, so I went back to help. The sand was soft and the current pretty strong as the water level rose up to our knees, so I think they were lucky to have me there as I grabbed them by the arms and steadied them as we walked across. Another nice dinner, with beers by the ocean again.
10/1/19
We had a relaxing morning, then we got on a boat and did 2 snorkels at Timba Timba Island. There were really amazing corals there, and lots of beautiful reef fish (but not many big fish as fishing is allowed here). Saw 3 blue-spotted stingrays, a couple turtles, and a banded sea snake!
In the afternoon we had 2 snorkels to Pandandan (?) Island. Saw a blue-spotted stingray, and so so so so many turtles. Everywhere you looked was a turtle! At one point there were 8 turtles in my field of vision!
Back at Mataking, Atteh and I enjoyed a beer at sunset, then a nice dinner where Evelyn bought each of us a big Tiger beer. We all then went to the karaoke bar. I started off with two songs (Country Roads and I Will Survive) and that got other people up singing. So we had quite a good time!
10/2/19
In the morning we took the fast boat back to Semporna, then van transfer to Tawau for my flight to Kuala Lumpur. Once in KL I flew to Singapore on fancy Singapore Airlines. On arrival to the amazing and crazy Singapore Airport, I found out my flight was delayed 12 hours. I had a bit of a problem b/c United said they had given out all hotel vouchers and could only offer me a lounge to stay in, but then Wayne said he would definitely cover a hotel for me. All the hotels at the airport were booked, so I took a taxi into the city. After I checked in to the hotel, I went out to 2 different outside restaurants to enjoy Singapore noodles and beers.
10/3/19
Back to the Singapore airport. It's kind of like this amusement park slash fancy shopping mall slash airport. There is so much to do there! Had breakfast in the lounge since I still had my free lounge ticket. Then I boarded my flight to San Francisco and then on to Denver.
k
9/20/19
Elisha and I drove to Spokane where we stayed in a room in an airbnb at Airport Heights and went out to a Thai restaurant
9/21/19
Flew from Spokane to San Francisco. During the layover I watched the gator game. Then a nice flight to Shanghai. I had to go through the rigmarole of getting a temporary visa, which wasn't too painful. But a Spanish couple in line was having a lot of trouble b/c they didn't really speak English. So I helped them with translation so that they could get their visa.
After going through the visa process, I found out that my luggage was lost. Although the gate agent told me I wouldn't have to pick up my luggage in San Francisco, it turns out I was supposed to pick it up there and re-check it. So I tried to deal with that. Eventually I went and got some chinese noodles and then boarded my flight to Kota Kinabalu.
9/22/19
Arrived early morning (12:30am) to Kota Kinabalu. I was picked up and taken to a nice hotel. I spent a fair amount of that late night trying to figure out how to get my lost luggage
9/23/19
Had a nice breakfast at the hotel. A guy from the company Oceanic Society works with met me at the hotel and we went to the fancy mall nearby to buy some clothes and essentials, since who knows when my bag will get there. Being Asia, I had to buy larger sizes, like XXL, yet they were still tight on me. KK is so fancy and modern now compared to when I was there back in 2008 (or was it 2009).
Had an afternoon flight to Sandakan, then transfer to Sepilok Nature Resort. Super fancy! It's located in the jungle with water around, and I have my own huge cabana! I met Atteh, my co-guide who works for Oceanic Society's partner in Malaysia (Sticky Rice). He's a very nice guy. I saw an orangutan just outside my cabana. In the early evening I gave an arrival brief, then had a nice dinner of red chicken curry and ice cream. I of course met the guests who would be traveling with Atteh and me: Nancy & Evelyn (sisters from Texas), Carol & Thad (siblings from Kansas, though Thad has lived in Montrose for many years), and Julia (California).
9/24/19
We had a nice breakfast by the pond. We then visited the Sun Bear Conservation area. We saw several cute sun bears with their black bodies and golden chests. They prefer to eat honey and insects. We then moved on to visit the Sepilok Orangutan rehab center. We saw several semi-wild orangutans including 2 moms with tiny babies. The orangutans at this rehab center have food put out for them every morning; however, they are free to come and go and there are no fences, so in that sense, they are wild. Often orphans, injured individuals, or orangutans who have lost their homes due to habitat destruction are brought here.
We then took a 1.5 hour boat ride from the Sandakan Yacht Club, which sits on the ocean, to the Kinabatangan Wetland Resort by traveling up the Kinabatangan River. We arrived to a tasty Malay buffet lunch. The Kinabatangan Wetland Resort is SUPER fancy.
After lunch and a rest we went on a river safari where we saw long-tailed macaque monkeys, proboscis monkeys, an orangutan, silvered langur monkeys, a baby crocodile, and a grey-tailed racer snake.
Best of all was seeing a clouded leopard attacking a silvered langur morph!! We were watching some langurs jump huge distances from tree to tree, when all of a sudden someone yelled, "Clouded Leopard! Clouded Leopard" and we turned and saw a leopard hanging upside down by two legs holding a langur in it's mouth. Clouded Leopards are incredibly rare to see, so we were super lucky to see one!
Back at the resort we saw a flying snake on the boardwalk. After a delicious Malay buffet with good curries, we took a night walk in the rainforest. We saw a scorpion. It is cool how it glows under a UV light. We also saw some sleeping birds
9/25/19
We had an early morning boat safari ride. We saw silvered langurs, probosci monkeys, long-tailed macaques, and a rhinoceros hornbill. We had tea at an ox bow lake and then a fancy breakfast when we got back. Before lunch we did a short jungle hike, and then I chilled in my nice room. This lodge is definitely quite fancy and we always have hot and cold towels given to us when we arrive back to the lodge after a safari. In the afternoon we had a another safari boat ride. Highlights were some really cute baby macaques and also 2 short-clawed otters.
At night we had live music (good singers) and ate some great curry dishes. We then had a night boat ride where we saw a croc and sleeping kingfishers. The stars were amazing, but the best was the lightning bugs in the trees!! They were so brilliant and they lit up the trees like Christmas, twinkling away as they turned on and off trying to attract mates! Truly mesmerizing and one of the highlights.
9/26/19
In the morning we took a boat up river to Sukau. We then hopped in a van to drive to Lahad Datu, a city where the Borneo Rainforest Lodge headquarters are. It was a disheartening drive as it was 2+ hours of driving through palm oil plantations where there used to be virgin rainforest. Palm oil plantations are the number one reason for rain forest destruction and species extinction in Borneo. The Rainforest Lodge HQs are right next to the Danum Valley Field Centre Office. Many years ago I had stopped at the field centre office before heading up to the research center. Back then I remember looking at how fancy the rain forest lodge headquarters were and the pictures of how fancy the lodge was, but I was going to the very basic research station. But now, oh how the tables have turned. I remember thinking I'd never go to the rainforest lodge because it was so fancy and expensive. At the HQs we were given snacks and free water bottles. We then hopped in fancy, brand new, and shiny 4x4 trucks for the 2 hour drive to the Borneo Rainforest Lodge, which was a nice drive through towering rainforest. We were welcomed with lemon, mint, and lemon-grass ice water and hot towels to wash off with.
The lodge sits in primary forest along a river. It's beautiful! While eating lunch (the lodge is open air for dining) we saw maroon langurs from the balcony. Lunch spread was amazing! There was an appetizer area with prawns, salads, cold meats. There was Tom Yum soup. Six different Asian dishes, including a yummy chicken curry, shrimp stir fry, eggplant dish, lamb curry, and more. They also had fancy cheeses and breads with special sauces (such as pesto), and more. They also did made to order sandwiches, make to order pasta, and made to order stir fry. There were dried fruits (like banana and dragon fruit) and nuts. They had desserts like mango mousse, chocolate mousse, tiramisu, and cookies. SO fancy! The room are very nice as well. There is no air con, but a special cell phone to call reception, all the adapters for various country plugs you could want, tea and coffee maker, a lemon grass air diffuser (like those things Elisha likes), a minibar with free soft drinks, no chemicals in their soaps, etc. They have a special ant proof container for food, b/c as I found out, the ants pretty instantly find your food.
In the afternoon, we walked through the forest with a guide. We saw some maroon langurs and some cool large lizards on trees. We also saw a monitor lizard. The rainforest is beautiful! The trees are so gigantic! I also saw the must beautiful butterfly I have ever seen gliding through the forest with its translucent wings.
Dinner was of course amazing. I had fresh stir-fry, mee-goreng, plus samples from all the different types of curries on offer, including an eggplant curry and a green coconut seafood curry. We took a game drive at night in an extended open air electric golf cart. We saw 2 giant flying squirrels, a civet, horned frog, some of the biggest tarantulas (ones that eat birds), a mouse-deer (the smallest deer), and best of all, a leopard cat, the smallest species of cat here.
9/27/19
We did an early morning canopy walk, which was cool. We then went to breakfast. There were made to order omelettes, fresh fruit, fresh squeezed juices, and more. We had a chill morning, and I worked on my presentations. Another yummy lunch. Many curries and good soups. In the afternoon we walked to a swimming hole that was SO warm. We then did a late afternoon nature walk. On the way, we saw a cute little bat that sleeps in rolled up banana leaves. We also saw a really cool flying mammal called a colugo. It started to rain, so we headed back. Under one tree, because of the wind, nuts were pelting down all over. It was like a nut rain!
Another amazing dinner. Then we did a night walk where we saw several species of tree frogs, a couple snakes, a giant moth, and some other little critters. I gave my talk on rainforest ecology that night in the conference room of the resort. A lot of the local guides stopped in to watch it.
9/28/19
Fresh waffles for breakfast. Then me and the fittest of the guests did an early morning hike up to a viewpoint that was very nice. We saw maroon langurs at the top. We also visited a historical burial site in the cliffs. On the way down, we stopped at a little pool next to a waterfall where you could dip your feet in and the fish would munch at your dead skin. It was so tickly!!! It would make you scream/laugh at the same time. I eventually got all the way into the pool, and the fish bit all over me.
Another delicious lunch, including a big burger. After lunch I prepped for my next lecture and then had a really nice hour long massage that was so fancy (with tea before and after, special scented towels, foot cleaning in a flower bath).
On the afternoon walk, we followed an orangutan mom and baby through the forest. My lecture this evening went well. It was mostly on my own research in the tropics. On our night game drive we saw a colugo, giant tree frog, and a malayan civet. We also caught a super quick glimpse of a slow loris. Yummy dinner once again: grilled prawns were amazing. At dinner, we saw a flying gecko.
9/29/19
Maroon langurs visited the lodge during breakfast and sauntered into the dining area. After breakfast we went by 4x4 to the end of the dirt road, then in a van to Semporna, a town on the coast. From there we hopped on a boat and after an hour or so speed boat ride, we arrived to Mataking Island. There is a beautiful resort--where we are staying--on this their own private island. There's a beautiful white sand beach encircling the entire island and of gorgeous beautiful aquamarine water. The whole resort, aside from our small group is Chinese, and it's obvious the place mainly caters to chinese as their are always chinese food choices and all the information for rooms and activities are written first in chinese. After checking in, I took a walk on the beach around the entire island and saw some turtle nesting tracks. At the center of the island I climbed up a man-made viewing tower. I then relaxed in my room until dinner. Dinner had delicious fresh tuna steaks and lots of Asian dishes. The dining area is open air, but enclosed as part of it, or you can sit out on the deck where the ocean is right below you, which is cool.
9/30/19
In the morning we got on a boat for the 90 minute boat ride to the famous Sipadan Island. We had 2 morning snorkels, then we had a fish and chicken lunch on the island and then an afternoon snorkel. So so so many turtles. Everywhere! Also a huge school of jacks that could swim through. Saw 2 octopi, one which wasn't too shy, so you could see it all. I also saw 2 white-tipped reef sharks. Some barracuda as well. But turtles everywhere, just everywhere. There was nice coral as well, but just so many fish and so many big fish. One of the truly best dive spots in the world.
Back on Mataking island, I walked out, during low tide to Little Mataking island. The tide started to come back in on the way back, causing the sandbar bridge to disappear. I noticed 2 people behind me were having some trouble, so I went back to help. The sand was soft and the current pretty strong as the water level rose up to our knees, so I think they were lucky to have me there as I grabbed them by the arms and steadied them as we walked across. Another nice dinner, with beers by the ocean again.
10/1/19
We had a relaxing morning, then we got on a boat and did 2 snorkels at Timba Timba Island. There were really amazing corals there, and lots of beautiful reef fish (but not many big fish as fishing is allowed here). Saw 3 blue-spotted stingrays, a couple turtles, and a banded sea snake!
In the afternoon we had 2 snorkels to Pandandan (?) Island. Saw a blue-spotted stingray, and so so so so many turtles. Everywhere you looked was a turtle! At one point there were 8 turtles in my field of vision!
Back at Mataking, Atteh and I enjoyed a beer at sunset, then a nice dinner where Evelyn bought each of us a big Tiger beer. We all then went to the karaoke bar. I started off with two songs (Country Roads and I Will Survive) and that got other people up singing. So we had quite a good time!
10/2/19
In the morning we took the fast boat back to Semporna, then van transfer to Tawau for my flight to Kuala Lumpur. Once in KL I flew to Singapore on fancy Singapore Airlines. On arrival to the amazing and crazy Singapore Airport, I found out my flight was delayed 12 hours. I had a bit of a problem b/c United said they had given out all hotel vouchers and could only offer me a lounge to stay in, but then Wayne said he would definitely cover a hotel for me. All the hotels at the airport were booked, so I took a taxi into the city. After I checked in to the hotel, I went out to 2 different outside restaurants to enjoy Singapore noodles and beers.
10/3/19
Back to the Singapore airport. It's kind of like this amusement park slash fancy shopping mall slash airport. There is so much to do there! Had breakfast in the lounge since I still had my free lounge ticket. Then I boarded my flight to San Francisco and then on to Denver.
k
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