Tuesday, November 12, 2019

Halloween in McMurdo



11/9/19
We had an eventful last week here in McMurdo. Saturday night was the Halloween party. Elisha and I dressed up as giraffe and cheetah (I’m sure you can deduce, based on heights who dressed up as what). We were theming our costume after our trip through Africa. There were lots of good and creative costumes and of course plenty of dancing. Some of my favorite costumes were the Sea Ice lifeguard (dressed up by the guy who is the sea ice POC), Ms McMurdo (who was a fortune teller type person with a sweet costume) and a giant gender reveal cake). 

On Wednesday morning I woke up with crust in my eye and was diagnosed with pink-eye. They put me in room quarantine for the day. It's actually not too bad of a thing to get b/c you don't feel sick, but have to stay home from work. So I watched the Lion King, Men in Black, some tv shows, and a new movie about Lea Israel the troubled writer. I also sorted through photos.

SAR practice this week was glacier travel and self-arrest on steep slopes. It was fun as we got to rope up and walk up on the ice fall of a nearby glacier. We also got to do some ice climbing.

On Friday I flew in one of the brand new helicopters out to Marble Point to do a camp review. Marble Point is a helicopter refueling station for the nearby dry valleys (helicopter truck stop). It's not a particularly scenic area, but it sits between a glacier and the coast. The best part of it is that there are 3 people stationed there: Gavin the manager who I knew before he used to work out there, a rotating fuelie, and Karen the chef. Karen is so sweet. She used to live near Glacier NP for a while until Montana got too crowded for her and now she lives in Alaska. But she dreams of moving to the North Coast of Colombia. Anyways, coming to visit the little shack at Marble Point is like coming to grandma's house as there is a delicious home-made lunch waiting, home-made soup (sweet and sour today), fresh-baked bread, and fresh baked deserts (chocolate chip cookies and chocolate dipped rice krispy treats this time). She also has one of the best selection of teas around as well as some of the best snacks (dried fruits and nuts and things). The Marble point building looks junky from the outside but it's very homey on the inside.

This week we also attended the science lecture, which was given by 2 of the artists and writers. They are collaborating on a project called "The Last Glacier" where they are documenting the remaining glaciers. One of them is from Clemson University and the other from Montana State University. The one from Clemson makes wood carved art and the other takes photos. They then put their stuff in these giant books (like 3 feet tall) that can be viewed at museums and libraries. The talk and their project was especially meaningful to me as I love glaciers and thus far they have made books on the glaciers of Glacier NP, Rocky Mtn NP, and Kilimanjaro. This summer they visited the Rwenzori Mtns in Uganda to start a book on the glaciers there.

After the science talk we went to the coffee shop and enjoyed a fiddle performance by Colin from the waste team who is an excellent fiddler.

Yesterday (11/8) was the first day it went above freezing for the year, with a high of 34F


practicing self-arrest























our room


our tea shipment came in from Celestial Seasonings!

Colin playing fiddle


marble point

hula dancer on helo

Mt. Erebus

Halloween costumes




Friday, November 8, 2019

Lake Malawi

6/23/19
Today was another very early start. We drove through a relatively lush and nice mountainous area with some volcanoes around. We crossed the border into Malawi and drove along Lake Malawi with the setting sun. Our campsite is on the beach, but it was dark when we arrived.

On this trip, starting in Zanzibar, we have 6 people joining 6 of us that are continuing. The continuing are Lewis, Norbert, Luti, Lucy, Elisha, and Me. The people joining are Lucinda (UK), Amber (UK), Danny (Germany/Spain), Johanna (Germany), Mike (UK), and Jodi (Australia). Jodi had been on the Ethiopian portion with us before. It was her friend Kelly who had passed away. When she got back to Australia she felt lost and full of heartache and felt like Kelly would have wanted her to come back to Africa, so she signed on for the Zanzibar to Cape Town portion. Also, a new tour leader trainee, Helen (Australia/UK) has joined.

6/24/10
In the morning, we walked out to the beach to watch the sunrise over the beach and lake. We then drove to the town of Mzuzu where we did some shopping and visited the local market. The drive was very nice up the escarpment into the mountains with nice views of the lake. We descended back down to the lake to Kande beach where we set up camp and went for a swim in the crystal clear waters of Lake Malawi. We hung around the beach and then had a delicious steak BBQ. After dinner we had salsa dance lessons let by Helen. Then we all took Tequila shots in honor of the salsa and then played some beer pong before heading down to a bonfire on the beach. There was a big party at the beach campsite because there were 5 overland trucks there. Lots of dancing and loud music playing.

6/25/19
We got to sleep in and have a great potato, bacon, and eggs breakfast. Elisha and I walked the 2 km inland to Kande village to visit the post office and check out the village. We had a guy, Wiseman (actual name) show us around a bit. Cassava is the staple food here, and they make ugali out of it. Wiseman showed us how to play the Malawian game Boa (similar to Mankala), and I beat him in the first game! He's a wood carver, so we had him make us personalized wood-carved magnets. We had a delicious lunch of burgers and fries.

Then Elisha and I hired a fisher boat to paddles us out to Kande island to snorkel. It wasn't the most stable boat in the world, and it seemed like it might tip during the several minutes it took to get out of the breakers (it was fairly windy so there were some big waves). The bow went under the waves several times, and we got some big splashes. We baled the boat out, and we made it safely out past the breakers. At Kande Island we did some fishing using worms and reed poles. I caught a couple tiny little cichlid fish. We then went snorkeling amongst all the cichlid fish. They are beautiful, multi-colored tropical fish. Some were beautiful blue fish with black stripes. Also lots of nice yellow ones. Cichlid fish are a popular fish that people have in aquariums back home. The boat ride back was smoother.

For dinner we had brats and delicious charcoal-cooked little pumpkins. There was more dancey music at night. At one point, Elisha and I walked out to the beach took look at the amazing stars and take come cool photos with the milky way as the backdrop.

6/26/19
It was another sleep-in morning for us with eggs and french toast for breakfast. We then did our laundry and hung out by the beach, reading and journaling. After lunch we took a walk along the beach. We reached a fisherman village full of their famous dug-out canoes. There were also tons of little kids that rushed out to say hello, give us high fives and hold onto our hands. They followed us for most of the rest of our walk. Elisha led them in a follow the leader activity on the beach. Then it was time to skinny dip in the lake. It was windy enough that the waves were big enough to body surf. We then enjoyed gin & tonics on the beach with the last of the sun. For dinner, the guys at the campsite killed and roasted a whole goat over the charcoal fire for us. It was pretty tasty.

Sunday, November 3, 2019

Tanzanian Mountain Villages and Spicy Zanzibar

6/15/19
In the morning while taking down our tents, we found a hedgehog. Cute little guy! Today we drove to Lushoto. It is a mountain village up in a nice forested mountain area. On the way to the base of the mountain, we drove by Moshi, the basecamp town for Kilimanjaro, but still now views of the peak as it was rainy and cloudy. The drive up to Lushoto was beautiful with steep, lush mountains, and lots of waterfalls. After arriving at the campsite (a beautiful place), Elisha and I took a walk around the village and also found a chameleon. Kirsten stepped on one of my sandals and broke it =(

6/16/19
The group took a walking tour through the villages and mountains. We found 3 chameleons on the hike. We also stopped by a local "brewery" that makes alcohol out of sugar cane. We went to a really sweet viewpoint that looked sown to the valley floor and across cliffs. It had a rock you could jump across onto that was dramatic in feeling as it was precariously placed. After the viewpoint we had a very yummy lunch at an old colonial German place with a view. We then hiked back.

In the afternoon, Elisha and I visited the town, and I got my sandal repaired. We visited the weekly market that was happening. The women were so colorfully dressed and beautiful. After that I searched for more chameleons and found 2.

6/17/19

We were up very early and drove to Dar Es Salaam. We camped at a beach-side campsite. The beach is pure white and the water is a pretty greenish-blue. When we arrived, we went for a swim, then played 3 fun games of volleyball. For dinner we had fresh seafood. At night we saw 3 bush babies walking along the telephone wire

Maggie is leaving the trip a few days early because she has been sick to her stomach for a few weeks now, and is just tired of it. I hadn't listed the names yet, but this leg of the trip had Norbert, Lewis, Maggie, Elisha, and I from the last trip. We added Lutie (Holland), Kirsten (Austria), Justin (Australia), Eliza (Poland), Sean (USA) [Sean and Eliza got engaged on the trip], Dan (UK), Bex (UK), Luke (UK) [Bex and Luke got engaged on the trip], Ellie (UK), Grace (UK), Jenny (UK, and Lucy (UK).

6/18/19
We took a morning Catamaran ferry to the island of Zanzibar, famed for its spices and known as the spice island. Our hotel the first night was in Stone Town, the old neighborhood with narrow walkways only suitable for walking and scooters, so our luggage was delivered via push cart.

After checking in, the group went on a boat tour to prison island where there is a tortoise sanctuary. Elisha and I didn't join; instead we preferred to explore the maze of pathways in Stone Town and enjoy the Zanzibar cuisine. We walked around some, getting a bit lost in the streets looking for a recommended Indian restaurant (Spice Route). We found it and enjoyed a most tasty Indian meal as well as some island-themed cocktails.

We then went out exploring more of the Aladdin like alleyways. We walked by the house where Freddie MErcury was born (lived for a bit?). During our walk we found the Indian Restaurant (Maharaj) that my parents had taken us to in 1997 that was so delicious (and foreign to me at the time, maybe the first Indian food I had ever had). Further along the walk we stopped for some delicious gelato. I got a scoop of passion flavor and a scoop of Masala flavored. Yum!. We then hired a dhow (traditional arab sail boat) to take us on a private romantic sunset sail. It was a nice, quiet ride along the coast with some snacks and drinks. It was also cool to sail along the main stone town ocean front with its old sultan palaces.

In the evening we went to the open air night food market at Forodhani Park. The market was in the park and featured lots of tables with fresh fish on skewers, ready to be grilled. There was everything from tiger prawns to lobster to crab to squid to octopus. We enjoyed some skewers of tuna, dorado, kingfish, shrimp, and chicken tikka. We also had fried breadfruit chips. It was ll pretty cheap. After the dinner we had a couple of glasses of super delicious soursop juice. We found our way back to the hotel through the maze of alleyways with a little help from some locals. The hotel has air conditioning!!

6/19/19
We had a brief morning tour of a couple of sights in Stone Town. We saw the house where Dr. Livingstone had owned. We then visited the site where the slaves, as part of the huge slave trade, had been taken to be "stored" and sold before moving out of Africa. We visited the tiny, hot, and stuffy dungeons where the slaves had been crammed into. So sad. We then visited the museum for the slaves where we read all about the slave trade. Very sobering. And also sad to read about the modern day slavery that occurs, in large part to support the cheap products that we all buy. Pretty horrific.

After the slave museum, we visited  the town outdoor market. We then drove to the interior of the island where we had a spice and fruit tour. We learned all about the difference spices and how they grow. We got to smell and taste many of them as well. We were also shown other plants that are used for medicinal purposes and other uses. For example, the lipstick plant that women use the fruit of for red lipstick. We also got to try several teas and a whole bunch of fruits (various citrus, mango, soursop, durian, jackfruit, coconut, and pineapple). Afterwards we had a delicious curry lunch at a local house.

We then drove to Nungwi Beach where we went for a swim and then played some beach volleyball. We watched a really gorgeous susnet and then walked to a restaurant on the beach (literally on the beach) where Elisha had fresh fish curry, and I had a whole red snapper. Delicious! This hotel also has AC!

6/20/19

After breakfast, at a table with our feet in the sand, we took a boat tour out to Mnemba Island where we snorkeled on the reef. The coral was just ok, but lots of really good tropical fish. We then stopped of to have fruit on a sandbar that had perfectly white sand and beautiful aqua colored water. After that we went in search of bottlenose dolphins. We eventually found a pod of about 15. After a couple of failed attempts to with with them because they were moving too fast, they slowed down, and we were able to swim with them, which was really amazing! Also so fun to swim with dolphins!

After lunch we spent a couple hours doing all of our laundry as it was the first place in a long time that we were staying 2 consecutive nights AND was sunny, dry weather. In the late afternoon our whole dragoman group got on an old dhow for a booze cruise. It was a ton of fun! We sailed through the aquamarine waters along the coast, checking out the other beaches and resort. There was a group of about 5 drummers playing music that we could dance to. There were 3 crew members also dancing and readily dispensing rum & cokes, gin & tonics, and Kilimanjaro beers (unlimited amount of drinks in the $20 cruise price). So everyone was very dancy and having lots of fun. We also stopped several times so that we could all jump off the roof of the boat and swim around. The sunset was also gorgeous. After we landed back at our beach, we had fish dinners at the restaurant and then had a very fun dance party on the beach.

6/21/19
We drove back to stone town and explored around for another hour. Elisha and I grabbed some fruits and juices before taking the ferry back to Dar es Salaam. The ocean was a bit roughter going home, so a few people got sea sick in our group. Back at our beachside campsite, Elisha and I walked along the mostly deserted beach and collected shells. Our tent is at the top of the beach such that we can hear the surf from inside to lull us to sleep

6/22/19
We had wheels rollinga t 4am, our earliest and longest (15 hours) drive to date. We drove through Mikumi National Park. It wasn't a game drive, just passing through on the highway, but we still saw elephants, buffalo, giraffes, and more. We drove up through a beautiful river valley with yellow trees. On the second half of the drive, we drove past SO many giant baobab trees: just hillsides completely filled with them. We stayed at a nice campsite, but we couldn't see it because we arrived in the dark. However, the stars were pretty dang amazing. Because we arrived so late, we had a nice dinner prepared for us from the restaurant at the campsite.

Friday, November 1, 2019

Start of our 5th year senior season in Antarctica

11/2/19 Well, we've been in McMurdo for a couple of weeks now. Things are going well and improving. My job and work center are amazing again this year. We've been doing a lot of training in my job and getting ready for the season, but we have done the first flush and monthly water sampling for the station and a lot of shoveling and organizing.
I'm on the SAR team again, so last week I was out training on the crevasse simulator (or SAR-chasm as it's known here). If you've seen any documentary conspiracy theory things about aliens, they often show satellite photos of the crevasse simulator with tractors inside digging it out and point to them being space ships. haha.

We're pretty busy each day. We're playing league volleyball (league is new this year), doing the high intensity workout that Mitch is the POC for (known lovingly as Mitch-body since the program is normally called Beach Body), and I'm playing basketball. We also went to a very good open mic night the other night and other activities still abound (trivia, stitch n bitch, finance club, spanish club, swing dance, yoga, and more)








Team Enviro: L to R: Laura, me, Marci


me at fire training

laura giving the training we give to all scientists and people going into the field

Marci and I water sampling

Laura and I shoveling out our storage

Elisha and I on top of ob hill


inside the gammov bag, used to keep sick people alive in high altitude situations


high altitude rescue training


sampling water at Gallaghers Bar