Bula Fiji!

 Wayne from the Oceanic Society asked me to lead two snorkeling trips this fall, one to Fiji and one to Raja Ampat in Indonesia. Unfortunately, I could only do 1 because of bro's wedding, but I was definitely excited to go to Fiji as I had never been before. I would be leading a group of 10 people and taking the group to 2 main areas. The 10 people were James, Donna, and Connie (from CA); Winnie and Warren (biologists from British Columbia); Roland and Debbie (from Washington); Sergei (from Boston...originally Russia); and Mark and Paula (Apple engineer from SFO)

Bula is a Fijian greeting that you hear ALL the time

9/30/23

I drove to Grand Junction over gorgeous Kebler Pass at sunrise. The fall colors were in full bloom, the mountains were pink with the sunrise and a bit of snow, and a full moon was setting. Absolutely stunning. I made record time to Grand Jct at that hour in the morning all while reporting a small fire to dispatch that I witnessed high up a valley. I met Dan Sturgeon at his house (where I'd be parking my car) and he treated me to a burrito before taking me to Safeway to get a COVID booster. Then I flew to Phoenix and on to San Francisco

10/1

Overnight flight from SFO to Nadi (pronounced nandi), Fiji. In the SFO airport I dined on some Philippine food. Pancit Bihon! and Chicken adobo.

10/2

I arrived to Fiji very early in the morning. I got picked up by the guesthouse host (Uma) and driven to my airbnb accommodation. I walked around town to get some snacks and visit a market where I got some coconuts, bananas, and sour sop. I took a taxi to Wahiloulou beach. I walked the beach and got breakfast and a smoothie at a beachside place. I then walked all the way back to my nice little homestay. It has some nice views mountains and tropical agricultural fields. I worked on my lectures the rest of the afternoon and then went out to dinner at an Indian restaurant.

10/3

I met the guests at the airport. When we all gathered we took a twin otter flight to Taveuni Island. It was a commercial flight, but we were the only ones on it, so it was like a private flight. We got picked up and driven to Taveuni Paradise Resort. Along the way we stopped for organic ice cream. Everyone else was in a van, and I was in a pickup truck with everyone's luggage. I told the driver that I liked his shirt (they are called 'bula' shirts here), and he offered to give it to me. This would be the first instance of so many where I witnessed just how amazingly friendly, nice, and generous the Fijian people are. At the resort, we were greeted with a foot massage and welcome drink. We then had a lunch of yummy fish. 

The resort is just beautiful! It's overlooking the water and is very lush. The rooms are spectacular with lots of flowers and a sweet outdoor shower. My room is so fancy and you can even see a bit of the ocean from it. There is even a bakery at the resort. The people here are so incredibly nice. They had all of our names memorized by the 1st day! My favorite was Kimali, who was just so sweet. 

In the afternoon, we did 2 snorkels by boat at Vuna reef. The water was pretty chilly, so I was thankful to have just purchased my first snorkeling wetsuit. Steak for dinner

10/4

Early wake up for a nice breakfast, then a boat ride to snorkel at Rainbow Reef. On the way there, we saw an actual rainbow! The reef was super beautiful! Very colorful with lots of good corals. Lunch of fish Afternoon snorkel to Vuna reef where we were lucky to see a sea snake. 

That night at the resort was "Fiji Night" with a Kava ceremony (not the tastiest thing ever, tasted like wood), singing and dancing, and a lova feast (food cooked over fire covered by leaves). Really delicious!

10/5

Again an early wake-up with a yummy breakfast. Snorkel at Rainbow Reef. Delicious lunch (again)--grilled fish. In the afternoon, a snorkel to Vuan reef. In between the two snorkel trips, we visited the local Vuna village to see how the villagers live. We were given a tour and met the Chief's spokesman. Also visited a blowhole, that wasn't super impressive with the current tide and waves. This area was supposedly the first surfing spot in the world, but I am sure this is debatable. I gave a presentation in the evening.

10/6

Early morning snorkel to Vuna reef. Really great coral! We were supposed to to an island hopping tour to an island settled by Tuvalu people who have been displaced from their own country by sea-level rise, but the weather was too bad and the sea too rough, so we did an island tour instead. 

Our first stop was in town for organic ice cream. The ice cream is made with local fruits or cocoa (if you got the chocolate variety). We then stopped at a shell jewelry "factory" where a few women take shells and turn them into jewelry with the help of some grinding machines and such donated by a European country (maybe Switzerland?).  We then hiked to 2 jungle waterfalls that were very beautiful. I swam in both and did some cliff jumping. Next we visited a natural waterslide, which was wild and a ton of fun! It was getting dark, but otherwise I would have loved to do it over and over again. Only 1 other guest (Mark), tried it. We had a lot of fun with the 2 locals guides, Dan and Lucia. Lots of laughter. Dinner was an Indian themed night (there is a large Indian influence in Fiji), and it was of course delicious

10/7

Travel day. We left Taveuni Paradise Resort with songs and farewells from the staff. We drove to the airport and then boarded the twin otter to Nadi. From there we took a bus to Pacific Harbor where we took a catamaran boat to Beqa (pronounced Benga) Island where we landed on the beach to singing from the staff of Beqa Lagoon Resort. I'm in this large beach house divided up into rooms. Sergey and I share one section of the house. We each have our own rooms, but then share a huge sitting area/ living room and a deck, all with ocean views. Delicious fish for dinner. 

10/8

A snorkeling day with 3 snorkels. We saw several reef sharks. We had a delicious lunch of fish. I gave a presentation after the snorkels. Watched an amazing sunset with palm trees in the foreground and a Fiji Gold beer in hand. A Fijian church choir sang to us during sunset, and I cashed in on my free foot massage.

10/9

Got up early to watch Fiji in the rugby worldcup. Full day snorkeling. We saw more sharks and a turtle. On the way out to the reef, dolphins swam in the wake of the boat. We had a roasted chicken lunch on a tiny island before snorkeling some more. It was rainy in the evening, but they still did a firewalking show, which is a special thing that the people of this island can do. However, there are a few provisions that must be met so that the firewalker doesn't burn his feet. One is that there can be no pregnant women present. Another is that the firewalker cannot have had sex in the past 3 days. And I think there was 1 more, but I am forgetting it now.

10/10 Happy Fiji Day!!  (Fiji Independence)

We had a morning snorkel, and then a Fiji Day celebration complete with songs and dances. We then joined in games: coconut husking, hanging apple eating contest, tug of war, egg relay, gunny sack relay, and kayak relay. Dinner was a delicious steak. At sunset there was a tiki torch lighting ceremony, which was gorgeous against the backdrop of the sunset. Then there were some cool warrior and cannibal dances. In the evening I also gave a talk.

10/11 

In the morning we did a couple of snorkels. In the afternoon we took a village tour and had another Kava ceremony. At night there was a really cool fire dancing and polynesian dancing show!

10/12

Full day of snorkeling. Saw some turtles and a juvenile semi-circle angelfish! which is a super beautiful fish and rare to see. We had lunch at Secret Island, which is a sand island that disappears at the high tides. It was incredibly beautiful with the white sands, turquoise water, and jungle clad island backdrop. We had a bbq lunch on the island. It was just crazy how gorgeous the location of the island was. I gave a talk in the afternoon

10/13  Friday the 13th

Last day of snorkeling. In the afternoon we didn't snorkel so that our wetsuits would have time to dry, so I kayaked to another village on the island. We had a traditional lovo oven buffet feast at night after another stunning sunset. The sunsets here have been amazing!

10/14

Boat ride (a bit rough) back to Pacific Harbor on the mainland. Then a bus to Nadi. Sergei and I took a taxi to tour the area to kill some time and see some sites before the night flights. First we went and got some fish and chips, then we went to the Sleeping Giant Orchid garden, which besides lots of beautiful orchids, had a nice jungle walk and a short viewpoint hike. We then went to the main market where I bought a bula shirt (to wear at bro's wedding), and then went to the beach to watch the sunset. 

After checking into the airport, I was able to go into the fancy lounge thanks to Sergei's buddy pass. Flight to SFO. The flight to Phoenix was delayed so, I arrived late to Phoenix and missed my connection to Grand Junction. They put me up in a fancy suite at a Holiday Inn and Suites by the airport.

10/15 Flight to Grand Junction from Phoenix. Nice drive over Kebler Pass with a touch of snow on the road in the shadows