Friday, February 16, 2018

Magical Dry Valley Trip


1/30/18
As part of my job, I am supposed to help with the lab close outs in the dry valleys. Typically we take a helper and Linnah and Liz fought really hard for it to be Crary supply since they are part of our team and because they have been trained in chemical safety as well as being familiar with science equipment. So in a super good stroke of luck, Liz was able to get Elisha to be my partner for my share of the lab closeouts and Wyn would get to go with Marci.

So in the morning, we donned our ECW and headed to the helo pad for a morning flight across the sound to the dry valleys. It’s a roughly 50 minute flight in the helicopter. We got lucky and were in the small helo, which meant that Elisha could sit up front with the pilot. We also got lucky b/c we were with pilot John who is in his last season and who loves whales, so he is happy to take people touring. He’s also known for flying a helo like a helo should be flown, so you get the rush of the ups and downs and high speeds close to the ground and all of that. On our way out to the valleys, he flew along the channel the icebreaker had made and at several spots he brought the helicopter down to within feet of the ground so that we could watch minke whales and orcas up close. That was simply amazing! He then took us along the ice edge where we chased little flocks of adelie penguins (“they lose their minds when they hear a helicopter”, he said), and flew of resolute emperors (they aren’t scared of helos). And along the way we saw more orcas swimming along the ice edge. And of course there were seals and skuas about. He then took us really close to a huge iceberg (150ft high) and then up over the pass from the Ferrar glacial valley into the taylor valley. Since Elisha hadn’t seen blood falls (this bright red part of the taylor glacier caused by bacteria), he flew us right up to it for a close up look before dropping us off at lake bonney camp.

Since the weather was so nice, we decided to hike first and then do our work in case the weather soured (it did a bit). We first hiked up to this ridge area famous for ventifacts—rocks that have been carved into cool shapes by the strong katabatic winds that can blow through the region. It’s a cool place b/c the rocks have interesting holes and shapes and some are just giant rocks carried in from glaciers of yore. We then hiked to the foot of a glacier coming down from the Kukri Mountains and decided to try to climb the peak just above us. Distances can be very deceptive in such huge open expanses with nothing (like a tree or building) to give perspective. The summit looked close, but it turned out not to be. We got really close to the top, reaching an elevation of 4757ft,  (having started at 223 ft above sea level), but we turned around in the end b/c we weren’t sure if there would be a view to the other side anyways.

On the way down we took advantage of some icy snowfields to slide down quickly, which was lots of fun. Though I also ripped my jeans on the slide down. Back in the ventifact area we hiked to the foot of another glacier and along the way we ran into a mummified seal. Sometimes seals (and penguins) lose their way and end up miles up these dry valleys before they succumb to exhaustion and the elements. B/c of the cold, dry air and lack of decomposing life, they become frozen in time, nearly perfectly preserved. It’s crazy to think of a seal making it all the way up these valleys through all the rocks, considering how they are not very good at moving on land.

When we got back down, we cooked dinner in the jamesway and then went to work in the lab. There were 3 other guys there disassembling the solar setup, so it was fun to hang out with them at night. They had brought lots of wine and whiskey which they shared with us. B/c they were going to be hanging out until the wee hours of the morning, we set up a tent and slept along the frozen shore of the lake.

1/31/18

In the morning we got a short helo ride from bonney to lake hoare camp.  Lake hoare is a larger and more established camp and sits right up next to the huge Canada glacier. There are 2 ASC employees (Beth and Robin) that live there and run the camp, so they welcomed us to the camp and offered us breakfast. We went to work on cleaning the labs until lunch. Beth made some yummy quesadillas, hummus, and tuna salad as well as cinnamon rice krispy treats. They also had a well-stocked chocolate drawer. After we were done with the labs, we hiked up alongside the Canada glacier to a viewpoint of the icefalls of the glacier. We then followed the established glacial trail for a bit that crosses the glacier (and eventually ends up at Lake Fryxell).

We luckily had the same pilot for the way back, and the little helicopter again. So we got another sweet ride. We saw lots of emperors, many of the swimming, as well as adelies. And we saw 4 or 5 minke whales as well as 30 or orcas. On several occasions he took us down, hovering just above them to watch the orcas spy hop. One group of young orcas was playing around and rolling and flicking their tales. John our pilot told us he’s seen the orcas playing with chunks of ice like they were balls.

All in all, such an amazing trip! We were super lucky because we got to go together, had great whether, and a sweet pilot. Elisha described each day as her best day in Antarctica, and I wouldn’t disagree






adelie penguins

emperor penguins



Commonwealth glacier






Lake Bonney





huge ventifact above lake bonney

















ventifact and taylor glacier



lake hoare labs


Rocket toilet




canada glacier and erebus



canada glacier falls

canada glacier

Lake Hoare Camp



Emperor penguins


orcas



orcas




ice breaker channel

Minke Whale

Minke Whale

Minke

Orca and Erebus

orca

ice edge

huge iceberg


Ferrar Glacier and valley







blood falls













climbing the peak



looking down at lake Bonney


glissading




ripped pants


riding a dinosaur

mummified seal







tent at lake bonney



Lake hoare main building


lake hoare labs and canada glacier


lake hoare camp



lake hoare camp and canada glacier


Beth cooking lunch

lake hoare bunk area

on the Canada glacier




orca



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