Saturday, April 20, 2013

Playing Indiana Jones: Trek to the Lost City

4/9

We left Taganga in the morning in a Land Cruiser to reach the trailhead to the lost city.  After a 4 hour drive, part of it 4x4, we arrived at the little village of Machete (so named bc many a bar fight here has turned into a machete fight).  Our trekking group included our guide Sixto, a translator (for the brits) Ellie, 3 brit friends (Josh, Robin, James), a Californian (Paul), an Israeli (Gal), and 2 other brits (Paul and Alex)

Day 1:  We hiked in the jungle along the river, having to cross it several times, but as it was dry season, they were easy crossings.  As it was quite hot, we made sure to jump in the river when we could and tried to make it places we could do some cliff jumping off rocks.  After our first river jumping, we continued up a steep ridge with good views, passed a millitary checkpoint, and enjoyed fresh watermelon at the top of the ridge.  Those interested also gulped down some Colombian coffee.  After the ridge, we hiked back down into a canyon where we slept in hammocks alongside the river being serenaded to sleep by toads and frogs.  Our camp was a little Eden of flowers along the river.  We walked downstream a tiny bit to arrive a gorgeous natural pool with a waterfall cascading into it and jungle vines and butterflies all around.  The only way to enter into the pool was by cliff jumping into it (a rickety ladder combined with rock climbing) was used to get out of it.

4/10  Day 2

We were up at sunrise to continue the hike.  Steep ups and downs as well as various river crossings and of course swims in the river to cool down.  Along the way was beautiful jungle scenery with giant trees, ferns, bananas and colorful birds and butterflies.  Along the way we walked by several villages of different indigenous tribes.  They live in circular thatched huts and are very much not modernised.  They wear an all-white robe outfit and some of the groups wear interesting hats.  They carry machetes as well as these gourd objects that the men are always working on which symbolize family and fertility.  They are very shy and defintely not very open towards gringos.

We reached our camp (paraiso) after a final river crossing (waistish deep) and passing some waterfalls.  The camp is beautiful sitting right next to a waterfall and on the river.  It came complete with friendly cats and mattresses under mosquito nets

4/11

Day 3

We got up early to hike to Ciudad Perdida (the lost city).  We first crossed a river and then climbed up about 1200 stone steps to the remains of the city which are surrounded by jungle.  The city was rediscovered in 1976 by grave robbers and cocaine farmers and the government took control of it a couple years later after some blood was shed as people fought over it.  The stone ruins and terraces were quite interesting and reminded us a bit of a fancy golf course, the way the terraces were set up.  It was a perfectly clear day, so we had nice views of the surrounding mountains.  We walked around the large complex with the guide as he explained to us all about the Tayuna culture (the tayunas had built the lost city in the 7th century) and how it was rediscovered.

After enjoying the city and posing for funny photographs with the millitary guys stationed at the top of the ruins, we hiked back down the stone stairs and continued on to where we would sleep for the 3rd night.  We of course stopped to swim in several places including under a waterfall.  Back at the main river, we did some pretty big cliff jumps into the river

You may have heard about the lost city because in 2003, 9 tourists were taken as hostages by the FARC and held there for 101 days.  May of you may be thinking now, why would you visit colombia?  Isn't it so dangerous?  The truth is that it is now very safe.  The FARC has been booted out to the very remote areas of the country where tourists don't go.  Now there is a huge millitary presence by the current stable government and thus, it is actually safer than the surrounding South American countries.  The night bus hijackings and cocaine warlord murders have all been put to a stop.  I did have to laugh when I was home for the summer last year at Colombia's TV advertisements they were using to promote tourism from Americans again now that it is a safe place.  They showed the beautiful sights and culture and also wanted to highglight how safe it is now.  There slogan at the end; however, has the right idea, but I think there was a little bit of a translational error, so it probably didn't come out in English exactly as they would have liked.  "Come visit Colombia, the only risk is that you won't leave"  They kind of missed pointing out that you wouldn't be leaving bc of being kidnapped by the FARC, but bc you love it so much


4/12

Day 4

We hiked back to our first camp.  We got there very early, so we had lots of time to read and siesta in the hammocks and enjoy the natural pool with the waterfall that made us think of a little Eden.  At the camp, they made us some absolutely amazing fresh squeezed orange/guava juice.  We again slept in hammocks for the night

4/13

Day 5

We hiked back down to the starting point of the trek (Machete) and then took the 4WD road back down to the main road.  From here, Elisha and I loaded up on some groceries and then were dropped off at the entrance to Tayrona National Park.

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