Gorgeous Pokhara again...and then onto Kathmandu

If you ask what Trek I liked better between the Everest region and the Annapurna region, it would be tough to say. Everest had much more spectacular big mountain and alpine scenery, but Annapurna had much more variety. Ann, one of the gals I had met at Gokyo, said that Annapurna was a more quality trek, which I agree with. The trekking days are longer there bc you dont have to be as worried about altitude. And b/c you are at lower altitudes you get to see more village life and families and what comes with all that. There is also much more diverse landscapes on the trek, different cultures and foods and all that. And b/c it was a circuit, you run into less people on the trail and have it more to your self since everyone is going the same direction. Also since everyone is going the same direction and doing the same basic route, you meet up with a sort of group of people that you always see and hang out with during the trek, which was cool. Our group involved of course Eva, David, and I, but also a father and son from California, a father and son from New Zealand, 2 women from Boulder, A trio of 2 english and a dutch, and the 4 from Flagstaff. Of course, I was in Everest during the crazy high season, and in Annapurna during the low season, which I am sure made a difference. Annapurna, b/c things arent flown in and there is more road access, costs about 1/2 as much as Everest for all the food and supplies. And b/c it was low season and the lodges make most of their money on food, my trio was always able to get our own individual rooms with blankets for completely free. So that was cool! This trek, maybe partly b/c it was the low season, just seemed to have more comeraderie than the Everest trek. And there werent any of those huge massive tour groups which was nice.

12/14 Got up very early to take a motorbike up to Sarangot again as the last time I went the sunrise hadnt been too good. This time I had that amazing sunrise that they all rave about. Spent the rest of the morning exploring old pokhara by motorbike and visiting the Seti River gorge. Spent the afternoon enjoying the culinary delights (yoghurt, lassies, bakery, chais) of Pokhara before having a farewell tea with David (he still wasnt feeling too good). Got my manly himalayan beard (I had complete about 2.5 months of hairy himalaya and no-shave Nepal) today by a barber who also gives a full head, neck, and shoulder massage for a buck fifty. But I kept the gross pedo-stache in honor of Beaver Creek Villate Transportation and Manly man (ask Lucas Stringfield if you want the inside to that joke).

12/15 Got up early to see sunrise over the Annapurna range from Phewa Lake one last time, from my favorite German bakery. Then bus to Kathmandu. Back in Kathmandu I kept myself busy looking at and into Antarctica jobs online.
Kathmandu isnt the nicest place to be right now as it is pretty cold (lows in the upper 30s to lower 40s and highs in the upper 50s) and the buildings arent built for cold and insulation here. Also, when I first got to Nepal, they were having powercuts of 5 hours per day. It then moved up to 6, and now it is at 8 hours per day1 At the start of the new year, they will be cutting power 12-16 hours per day. So that can kind of be an annoyance, especially in a city. But had a very delicious Indian meal by candlelight.

12/16 First day that I actually did a sightseeing thing in Kathmandu. Visit the Kathmandu Durbar Square where the royal family used to live. Visit Freak St (the old tourist ghetto) and then wonder around and lose myself in the narrow streets around Durbar square.

I havent talked much about Kathmandu itself. I dont particularly like it. I love Pokhara much better. The tourist ghetto, is knows as Thamel, and it is a crowded, noisy place. Tons of touts, narrow streets that still have cabs and pedicabs and motorbikes going through them. I think there is much more danger of breaking a leg by getting run over by a cab or bike in thamel than there is of doing the same while trekking. Kathmandu is similar to how I think most people would picture an Indian city. It not only has the noise pollution, but is dirty and smelly, especially outside of Thamel. On the walk to the post office you have to be very careful so as not to step in all the human feces along the way. Of course there are plenty of beggars, homeless, kids sniffing glue, etc. But the majority of the people you meat are quite nice, and in the back streets it is much more interesting and the noise dies down a bit and the smells become more pleasant (curries and spices). My guesthouse is very nice and I spend a lot of time hanging out onthe rooftop at it or watching movies in my room bc I dont have much of an urge to go explore in Kathmandu, unlike how I felt in other capitals like Bangkok or KL or something. If you are coming to Nepal, I would definitely recommend that you try and base yourself out of Pokhara as much as possible as it is so much nicer than KTM.